{"id":18610,"date":"2025-08-20T11:37:00","date_gmt":"2025-08-20T10:37:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/?p=18610"},"modified":"2025-08-28T12:40:01","modified_gmt":"2025-08-28T11:40:01","slug":"ruta-de-la-seda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/?p=18610","title":{"rendered":"Ruta de la Seda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>S\u00f3c un ratol\u00ed de biblioteca i, potser per aix\u00f2, viatjar sempre em sorpr\u00e8n: el m\u00f3n real t\u00e9 una manera pr\u00f2pia de narrar-se que cap llibre no pot substituir. Durant quinze dies, entre el 30 de juliol i el 15 d\u2019agost, vam rec\u00f3rrer Uzbekistan i Tadjikistan, entre ciutats monumentals i pobles que viuen al marge del turisme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6839-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-18612\" style=\"width:351px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6839-1.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6839-1-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>El que m\u00e9s em va impressionar va ser la facilitat amb qu\u00e8 es pot sortir de les zones m\u00e9s visitades i trobar l\u2019autenticitat del pa\u00eds: vida tranquil\u00b7la, gent amable i preus assequibles que trenquen prejudicis. Tamb\u00e9 la seva cultura i hist\u00f2ria, tan poc conegudes des de la mirada euroc\u00e8ntrica: all\u00e0 no hi ha hagut rom\u00e0nic, g\u00f2tic, barroc ni romanticisme ni tota la resta, i aix\u00f2 els ha estalviat moltes capes del nostre relat cultural que a vegades son un llastre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ens vam moure en trens, taxis i vols interns, cadascun amb el seu ritme i la seva manera de mostrar el pa\u00eds. Els grans monuments \u2014sobretot a Samarcanda, Bukhara o Khiva\u2014 impressionen, encara que molts estiguin reconstru\u00efts amb un punt de Viollet-le-Duc; un <em>violletleduquisme<\/em> \u2015existeix aquesta paraula?\u2015 centreasi\u00e0tic que tamb\u00e9 forma part de la seva identitat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6919-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-18613\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6919-rotated.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6919-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Per\u00f2 m\u00e9s enll\u00e0 de les ciutats, recordo especialment l\u2019experi\u00e8ncia a les muntanyes Fann a l&#8217;oest de Tadjikistan, a la ruta dels set llacs. Al set\u00e8, el llac Hazorchashma, a uns 2.400 metres d\u2019altitud, el nostre guia tadjik Nurullobek \u2014Nuru\u2014 ens va improvisar un dinar senzill i delici\u00f3s entre l\u2019aigua gelada i les muntanyes. Aquell gest gener\u00f3s va convertir el paisatge en hospitalitat i mem\u00f2ria compartida.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6982-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-18614\" style=\"width:400px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6982-rotated.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6982-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sempre m\u2019havia atret la Ruta de la Seda. Des dels anys noranta, quan vaig descobrir la m\u00edtica s\u00e8rie <em>The Silk Road<\/em> (1980-1988, coprodu\u00efda per CCTV i NHK), amb la fant\u00e0stica banda sonora de Kitar\u014d. Les imatges de caravanes creuant deserts i muntanyes, de ciutats-oasi plenes de vida i misteri, em van obrir una finestra a un m\u00f3n desconegut i gaireb\u00e9 llegendari. Potser per aix\u00f2, caminar per Samarcanda i Bukhar\u00e0 o explorar les fortificacions que es troben entre les terres semides\u00e8rtiques a l&#8217;est i al nord d&#8217;Urgench no va ser nom\u00e9s un viatge. Un moment m\u00e0gic: explorar la zona del sud de Karakalpakistan, on es troben les ru\u00efnes de m\u00e9s d&#8217;una dotzena de ciutats emmurallades, palaus i fortaleses, algunes amb m\u00e9s de dos mil anys d&#8217;antiguitat. Em va sorprendre el silenci i la solitud, la planura tan immensa, interminable, la quietud. Tamb\u00e9 va ser una revelaci\u00f3 descobrir els set llacs del Tadjikistan. Tot plegat va significar retrobar aquella promesa d&#8217;aventura i de mem\u00f2ria que m&#8217;acompanya des de fa tant de temps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_5962.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-18622\" style=\"width:428px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_5962.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_5962-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6010-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-18623\" style=\"width:433px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6010-1.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6010-1-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6030.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-18625\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6030.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6030-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6030-80x60.jpg 80w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6034-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-18626\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6034-1.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6034-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/img_blog\/IMG_6034-1-80x60.jpg 80w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>S\u00f3c un ratol\u00ed de biblioteca i, potser per aix\u00f2, viatjar sempre em sorpr\u00e8n: el m\u00f3n real t\u00e9 una manera pr\u00f2pia de narrar-se que cap llibre no pot substituir. Durant quinze dies, entre el 30 de juliol i el 15 d\u2019agost, vam rec\u00f3rrer Uzbekistan i Tadjikistan, entre ciutats monumentals i pobles que viuen al marge del&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":18611,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[23],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18610"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=18610"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18610\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":18634,"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18610\/revisions\/18634"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/18611"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=18610"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=18610"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mariusdomingo.com\/altacapa\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=18610"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}